A DIY Book Scanner In Every Hackerspace /DIY Kit

[jck57]

This scanner features many full mortise and tenon joints. Screws are often driven into the tenon shoulder - a weak area. An alternative joint is the blind mortise. This has the advantages of less cutting on both mortise and tenon, and greater strength against end grain split-out from screws. The tenon is left plain and the mortise is cut to half depth. Just as in the full mortise the tenon is positively located, but the screws can't split the tenon because the plywood cheeks are restrained in the blind mortise.

[daniel_reetz]

This scanner features many full mortise and tenon joints. Screws are often driven into the tenon shoulder - a weak area. An alternative joint is the blind mortise.

Ah, thank you. I like this approach because it can potentially make the design less dependent on wood thickness. It's interesting that if the wood expands toward breaking inside the joint, and the joint is well-made, it is essentially a benefit because of the tighter fit.

EDIT: also the less "drilling" I do with my spindle, the longer it will last since it is not made to take much force in that direction. So being able to substitute wood screws would be helpful in some sense.

[jck57]

Other options with blind mortises: hide dogbones under tenon shoulders or leave mortises radiused where tenons can be located without dogbones.

[jck57]

Drawing of various mortise corner reliefs. Figure 2 shows full dogbone relief. Figure 3 shows half bone relief in current use. Figure 1 shows alternative relief which cuts about 2.7 times less material than figure 3 relief.

bones1.jpeg (16.41 KiB) Viewed 1341 times

[daniel_reetz]

Now that is an intriguing relief design. I wonder if it represents something that the machine control could do with less accel/decel... that would help me considerably. I'll try it out tonight as I'm testing another cut.

[jck57]

I wonder if it represents something that the machine control could do with less accel/decel

I think so. With the Fig. 3 design you get one straight shot for every corner, but you still have the 90 so you end up with two full stops. With the Fig. 1 you have two 45's but you could even cheat it a bit: instead of stopping and then going at the corner at true 45, you could ease into the 45 by a few steps in order to keep the bit moving. Same with coming out of the corner. So you end up with one full stop.

[bambamlatino]

I have been watching on this thread for a pretty long time, credits to everyone here who have made daniel's fantastic work become better!
Anyway I noticed that there has been a lack of information on how to mount the trigger onto the camera support. The trigger build is good and I suppose it works but the base is pretty small about 6cm by 3cm.

My solution- which doesnt work
I thought of drilling a hole right through the 2 piece but it a little small to drill the hole, might even break the piece.
The drilling point is from the base of the 2 thin piece of wood that holds the trigger to the base of the whole thing. It is about 5.5 cm, after which I will lock it in by drilling a hold in the camera support and tighten it with a nut and screw.

Any suggestions guys ?

Hi daniel or anyone,

anyone has a better solution for mounting the trigger onto the support ?

[rob]

Mounting the trigger to the camera support was easy enough for me. I just placed it where the finger could hit the button, marked off where the trigger support ended up, drilled two holes, being careful to avoid the thin part and the cable, put the trigger support back on, drilled from underneath to drill the pilot holes, countersunk the holes, and screwed them in. They work great.

[bambamlatino]

being careful to avoid the thin part and the cable, put the trigger support back on, drilled from underneath to drill the pilot holes, countersunk the holes, and screwed them in. They work great.

Any pictures?

[arpa.ch]

Hallo Friends;

I would like to make a project with about 150000 Pages of protocols. Page site of the books are 32cm 22cm 13 cm I saw this Diy Book scanner and I am impressed about the concept. The project should start in 2 weeks , how can I get such a tool to make it better to bay it

it would be fine to get an answer

Tao
arpa@cybertime.ch