DIY book scanner kit in europe.

[goldo]

Hi does anyone know where it is possible to buy a kit (including the little things as screws, bolts and so on...) in europe ? more exactly in Belgium ?

Ty.

Karl

[Gerard]

i think we have to convert the bold sizes to the next metric bold sizes like 1/4" to M6

[goldo]

There is also the price for the shipping. And search for the screws, bolts, and so on.

I would be better to buy one in europe.

[daniel_reetz]

i think we have to convert the bold sizes to the next metric bold sizes like 1/4" to M6

There shouldn't be any 1/4" bolts.

The 5/16" bolts are interchangeable with 8mm bolts. I chose them and the skateboard bearings (a worldwide standard) for that reason. However the wood screws and pulleys may require additional sourcing.

I would love it if someone could put together a euro shopping list.

[goldbuyer59]

Hello Everyone,
I am looking to buy a book scanning rig. I was so happy to see the Ion Book Saver coming so I bought one. My money got refunded. Then I found another place and bought it again. Again my money got returned. After playing around with those jerks I found out they scrapped the project. I am a bit dyslexic and I am having problems in school. Does anyone know where I can buy a kit ready made or all I have to do is assemble so I can scan my books and use the software I have to read them to me. I can follow them and hear them and so far in my second year of school I have a 4.0 GPA but I've changed schools and the books are not e-books so I am in a bit of a pickle. Please help or point me somewhere that can. Thanks in advance.

Charles

[goldbuyer59]

Hello Everyone,
Where do you buy this kit? I am in need of it and don't mind paying for it. Or if someone out here can come up with something lilke the Ion Book Saver or The Book Liberator I would be more than interested in talking about buying it from you. Let me know and thanks.

Charles

[carassius]

i think we have to convert the bold sizes to the next metric bold sizes like 1/4" to M6

There shouldn't be any 1/4" bolts.

The 5/16" bolts are interchangeable with 8mm bolts. I chose them and the skateboard bearings (a worldwide standard) for that reason. However the wood screws and pulleys may require additional sourcing.

I would love it if someone could put together a euro shopping list.

Hi there!
We, my wife and I, are about to go on a "little" shopping tour, dragging all of the printed shopping list AND the construction instructions to some kind of german Home Depot tomorow morning. Most likely we will drive some poor salesman nuts in trying to hunt down all the bits and pices...
Just a "short" note on the measures you use, which are unfortunately all non-metric : You CAN use these really strangely dimensioned bolts, nuts etc. in Europe but one would have to get a few non-metric tool and YES, the are available in nearly any reasonably sorted store (but who wants to have two sets of tools unless one really uses them on a regular basis?). If you indeed have taken care of this little problem by choosing the 5/16" bolts and these ARE interchangeable with 8 mm bolts this would result in easily to handle standard (european sized) hardware . Unfortunately, as the ESA and NASA had to learn the hard way, the transformation of inch into cm and vice a versa does not always turn out perfectly...

Anyway, I will keep you posted on a. the prices of the material, b. difficulties/problems in assembling the scanning thing/monster/tower, whatever, c. how it worked out to transform inches into cm (e.g., us simple europeans generally do not know what a 2 x 4 is...unless one has been watching the WWF many many years ago...in the time of Hulk Hogan and the Heart Brothers, when some kind of hilbilly carrying an 2 x 4 was part of the show ) and d. hopefully be able to tell you sooner than later how the project worked out. Oh, if someone would be interested I can poste the dimensions, in cm, to the interested public, i.e. in case things work out!

Ups, one more thing. On one of the pictures of the cradle the MDF plates forming the actual cradle show a miter. Which angle have you used? 45°?
And another thing: My experience with MDF is rather ambigous. One should NOT try to redrill a hole to close to another one as the material does not stand this kind of stress. I will look into options for MDF plates and keep you posted should you be interested.

Keep your fingers crossed and let´s hope I am not going to loose any!

Carlos

[Heelgrasper]

Hi there!
We, my wife and I, are about to go on a "little" shopping tour, dragging all of the printed shopping list AND the construction instructions to some kind of german Home Depot tomorow morning. Most likely we will drive some poor salesman nuts in trying to hunt down all the bits and pices...

Hopefully you found what you needed. From your description I'm not quite sure if you're building "The New "Standard Scanner"" ( http://www.diybookscanner.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=333 ) or the DIY Book Scanner (the hacker space version).

As far as I can see there should be no reason that the 8 mm bolts shouldn't work. When I look at the plans for the CNC cutout the holes seems to be the right size and that's the only place it could make problems. The New "Standard Scanner" doesn't use any 8 mm bolts so it can't be that model you're talking about there (and again, in that model you have to drill all the holes yourself and metric drills and metric bolts should match).

And yet then you talk about 2x4 and a cradle of MDF which makes you think you're talking about the The New "Standard Scanner" since the DIY Book Scanner is made of plywood. In particular when you have questions about how things should be cut since that's all well explained with the plans for the DIY Book Scanner. However, I can't see any miters in the cradle of either design.

I looked quite a bit at the plans for The New "Standard Scanner" (before deciding to go for the DIY Book Scanner with some modifications) and there's nowhere where it should be any problems using other dimensions. Here in Denmark a useable standard to use would be 28x73 mm in stead of the 2x4. You just have to be aware how it changes dimensions as you go along. Example: The inside dimensions of the base is important since the cradle is to be fitted there so you want to keep them the same - or change dimensions of the cradle.

Only place I would change anything is when it comes to attaching the cameras. It's true that 1/4" is the size to be used but the thread is Withworth, not the UNC that you'll find most places. I't might work with UNC but there's a risk of ruining the fastening part of the camera and that would really suck. Special camera screws don't cost that much so I would go for them instead. I can see they sell for about 4 US$ a piece in the US and about the same in Europe. Hama is one manufactorer.

[rob]

Just a "short" note on the measures you use, which are unfortunately all non-metric : You CAN use these really strangely dimensioned bolts, nuts etc.

I know! (sob) stupid Imperial measurements. (wiping eyes) Anyway, yes, 5/16" and 8 mm are interchangeable (5/16" = 7.94 mm, close enough). The baltic birch I buy here in the US is sold as 18 mm, so that's the wood thickness taken care of. As for the DXF files, there's a 12-inch line in there which you can validate turns into 304.8 mm in your CAD program for when you program your metric CNCs. The bearings are metric. Bicycle parts are generally international. So really the only thing you should have to worry about are the wood screws, which are just wood screws, they aren't critical, and the closest equivalent to the bolt lengths. For the 2" bolt lengths, you can use 50 mm, and for 2 1/2", 60 mm is fine.

The only other thing is getting an LED light that is compatible with your house power. Oh, and PVC pipe for the handle. I *believe* that metric pipe sizes are designated with a DN number, and we use what would be DN 15 (15 mm).

So in summary:

5/16" = 8 mm
1/2" pipe = DN 15 = 15 mm
3/4" wood = 18 mm
3/4" wood screw = 15 mm ( try not to go above this)
1 5/8" wood screw = 40 mm
2" = 50 mm
2.5" = 60 mm

Hope that helps!

[rob]

Oh, one other thing is the glass. We specify 11" x 14", and the CAD files are made to fit that size glass. This ends up being about 280 mm x 355 mm. If you can get glass cut to that size, it will work with the scanner.