The New "Standard Scanner"

[daniel_reetz]

Great suggestion. We have one -- but it is not well known or updated very often.

http://diybookscanner.org/wiki/index.ph ... =Main_Page

Everyone here is welcome to join in on editing it, but we haven't seen much adoption. If you want to create a "Build a New Standard" document (or any other kind of scanner) that works in such a way, I would really encourage you to do so -- maybe the initial push is enough to get it started. Same if you just wanted to create a PDF of this thread, I would promote it and host it on the site.

I know that the forum format is not the best for instruction, but we haven't yet found the right platform. The Wiki barely sees updates, the blog can really only be maintained by a few people... it's tough.

We've also been investigating Booki (a sort of wiki-like book creator), but now that I'm working full-time, time is always an issue.

If you have ideas or guidance on these matters (or if anyone else does) I am interested to hear it.

[clemd973]

So am I correct with the assumption that I'll have to work through the forum to gather the suggestions and improvements made upon the initial forum posts from Daniel?

According to Daniel's last post, I didn't know the updated plans were available. I just finished my build using the original shopping list and guide, etc. There were some changes I had to make during the process, as well as some modifications I made afterward that you can see here (page 2 of the thread), and here (page 2 of the thread). I also have some photos of the process of the original build I can upload if you're interested. I'd be happy to offer my own suggestions from my personal experience with my build. You can PM me or continue to post here - perhaps the best idea so others can comment too as they follow the thread. I think I might take up Daniel's offer to comment on the instructional or .pdf the thread. By the way, one of these can be put together in a day or two - making the holidays a perfect time for a project. Good luck!!!

[strider1551]

I know that the forum format is not the best for instruction, but we haven't yet found the right platform. The Wiki barely sees updates, the blog can really only be maintained by a few people... it's tough.

If you have ideas or guidance on these matters (or if anyone else does) I am interested to hear it.

I was actually thinking what I might do next now that djvubind is entering a stable, maintenance sort of period. Here's the hurdles that keep me away from the wiki:
(1) It's not easy to find. There's no mention of it on the main page - I only know about it because of random mentions in posts like this. Granted, there needs to be good content before really advertising it... but it feels like a forgotten project that could disappear any moment.
(2) It's full of spam, and I assume someone needs special privileges to remove pages and clean it up.
(3) It's disorganized. No categories to structure where information goes. Again, I assume special privileges would be needed to make categories.

[daniel_reetz]

(1) It's not easy to find. There's no mention of it on the main page - I only know about it because of random mentions in posts like this. Granted, there needs to be good content before really advertising it... but it feels like a forgotten project that could disappear any moment.

I can fix this with zero effort, next time I update the front page. Also, I don't plan to make things disappear. This site is funded a few years out, and Rob and I back it up regularly. Although I don't mind deleting the first iteration of the wiki to get us going on a new one, I always err on the side of deleting nothing. My plan is to keep these resources around at least as long as I am around.

(2) It's full of spam, and I assume someone needs special privileges to remove pages and clean it up.

Oh, god, that's awful. You can see I don't spend a lot of time there.

(3) It's disorganized. No categories to structure where information goes. Again, I assume special privileges would be needed to make categories.

I will give anyone special privileges who wishes to have them.

[bnz]

How about starting a separate thread about a wiki structure discussion. I too think that it needs a real structure. I would probably also invest some time to copy&paste relevant information from the forum into the wiki as I prepare what I want to build. I guess I would have to do this kind of work anyway somehow if I want to build a scanner. If others help as well, that would be fantastic.

[daniel_reetz]

Here's the original Wiki thread.

I think I am just going to delete the current wiki and then rebuild a new one. I am going to contact Tim first, as he is the other Wiki admin right now. I'll ask him if he has time and interest in copying the existing information, and then we'll start from scratch this weekend.

[bnz]

Hi, I have more or less worked through the thread and wondered aboutt the platen imperfections mentioned everywhere. So far I have read various comments regarding possible improvements and what others have done, but I am missing some kind of feedback with respect to what of these changes are actually useful. This is what I have collected so far:

- Using a different kind of glass. Is acrylic glass by itself bad, because it flexes too much or is a thing of the thickness? I have read the suggestion to use 1/4", but also comments that 1/4" is maybe too thick. Any comments that would ease the decision?
- Using corner braces to attach the platen to the drawer slides for a stronger attachment.
- (Pin) glueing the glass. Is this necessary? It seems like pretty much work to me...
- Adding additional panes at the top sides of the platen for stabilization.
- Not exactly a part of the platen, but it seems many have added a counterweight mechanism probably for easier handling of the platen. Would you design to add this in the very first version? I was considering to built it first without counterweight and add it later on. I'm not sure whether the counterweight mechanism is actually a result of using the thicker kind of acrylic glass which weights more or useful in any case.

Or to put it the other way: does a thicker glass + counterweight + additional panes fix the mentioned problems that the acrylic is too flexible? Any other suggestions to improve the platen?

Does anyone know the properties about polystyrene glass which I saw at a local hardware store? I had a piece in my hand at 0.4 cm / 0.16" which didn't seem to flexible to me.

Thanks a lot and merry christmas to everyone!! I'll probably start to build my scanner next week

[photoman290]

been reading every now and again. too many projects to totally get immersed at the moment but it is all going in slowly. i may have missed it but i haven't noticed anyone suggesting using a foot pedal operated platen yet. this would leave both hands free to turn pages. one foot could operate the platen the other the lights and shutter. worked on a few production lines using foot operated machines and they are quite quick and easy to operate without getting tired.

[Drake Ravensmith]

If anyone is interested in a no solder solution for your camera switch, Daniel solved it. I don't seem to have saved the thread where he suggested this might work so I'm posting it here where it'll probably get more attention anyway. You go on ebay and find one of the two sellers hawking a usb splitter cable. I went with the black cable, slightly cheaper too.

Y-splitter USB male A to 2 USB female A

Splitter small.jpg (18.81 KiB) Viewed 2162 times

Then you pick up a gender adapter. You only need one the pic is just showing both sides.

USB A female to USB mini B female

Gender adapter small.jpg (13.15 KiB) Viewed 2162 times

You go to ebay or Amazon and pick up a Ricoh CA-1. Amazon is cheaper but their stock has been low as of late so patient please.

Ricoh CA-1

Ricoh small.jpg (18.05 KiB) Viewed 2162 times

Basically, attach the Ricoh to the gender adapter, the gender adapter to the y-splitter, and the y-splitter to standard USB A to USB mini B cables and then to your camera. (Incidentally, I tried this setup with two different USB hubs in place of the Y-splitter cable and the one hub did nothing, the second one with the lights showed a brief flicker before doing nothing.) A quick test confirmed that this setup will fire both cameras but not at the same instant. That could be because I haven't set my cameras up yet, they are basically at the same settings the previous owners left them on. Also, if the flash is on, it becomes insanely easy for the cameras to become out of sync. That is, the first button press fires camera one while the camera two focuses, and the second button press focuses camera one while firing camera two. Since we're not using the flash nor making 3D photographs, I would think that it's a non-issue. Also, the Ricoh has a tiny flaw. There's no light to indicate if the unit is on or not just a sliding switch so it is very easy to accidentally leave on. If you go this route you may want to consider setting the Ricoh up so that it is easy to change out the AAA battery.

Thanks again, Daniel for suggested the setup.

[clemd973]

If anyone is interested in a no solder solution for your camera switch, Daniel solved it. I don't seem to have saved the thread where he suggested this might work so I'm posting it here where it'll probably get more attention anyway. You go on ebay and find one of the two sellers hawking a usb splitter cable. I went with the black cable, slightly cheaper too.

Then you pick up a gender adapter. You only need one the pic is just showing both sides.

You go to ebay or Amazon and pick up a Ricoh CA-1. Amazon is cheaper but their stock has been low as of late so patient please.

Basically, attach the Ricoh to the gender adapter, the gender adapter to the y-splitter, and the y-splitter to standard USB A to USB mini B cables and then to your camera. (Incidentally, I tried this setup with two different USB hubs in place of the Y-splitter cable and the one hub did nothing, the second one with the lights showed a brief flicker before doing nothing.) A quick test confirmed that this setup will fire both cameras but not at the same instant. That could be because I haven't set my cameras up yet, they are basically at the same settings the previous owners left them on. Also, if the flash is on, it becomes insanely easy for the cameras to become out of sync. That is, the first button press fires camera one while the camera two focuses, and the second button press focuses camera one while firing camera two. Since we're not using the flash nor making 3D photographs, I would think that it's a non-issue. Also, the Ricoh has a tiny flaw. There's no light to indicate if the unit is on or not just a sliding switch so it is very easy to accidentally leave on. If you go this route you may want to consider setting the Ricoh up so that it is easy to change out the AAA battery.

Thanks again, Daniel for suggested the setup.

Let us know if that works for you. If not, check my post for the Van de Kamp alternative.