daniel_reetz wrote:...- if you connect the +5V output [ref] of the buckpuck to the control pin [ctl], it turns off. If you have a resistor on it, you can adjust the level. You can have a switch with a resistor on each pole, which will give you a medium and high level....
Turtle91 wrote:I noticed the new Cree datasheet (http://www.cree.com/products/pdf/XLampXP-G.pdf) says they did some more testing and have validated ALL their LED's (including older ones) can be run up to 1.5 amps. I assume that means you can get brighter light... Although from what I understand the Buckpucks still only put out 1 amp so you are limited if you are using those.
Turtle91 wrote:I also noticed that Cree has the XP G U1 (XPGWHT-U1-0000-00AE7) which provides a CRI of 90+. I was planning on ordering a few of those and playing with them - that is, if I can find anyone who actually has them - Cree doesn't seem to have the most user friendly product ordering process! Has anyone used the XP G U1? Or do you think that the DX Cree Q5 gets good enough results when scanning color images? - I haven't been able to find what the CRI value is for the Q5.
Turtle91 wrote:I have a question about the LED circit setup (ref the 20+ years since I've played with wires ). I want to have an on/off switch for the lights, and the dim working lights. When I hit the switch I want the lights to go full bright and then back to working intensity when I release the switch. Daniel mentioneddaniel_reetz wrote:...- if you connect the +5V output [ref] of the buckpuck to the control pin [ctl], it turns off. If you have a resistor on it, you can adjust the level. You can have a switch with a resistor on each pole, which will give you a medium and high level....
What I think this means - please correct me if I got it wrong - is that I put about a 350 ohm resistor in my switch which limits the current when I'm NOT pushing the button - giving me a dim working light.
Turtle91 wrote: When I push the button this bypasses the resistor - cuts the connection between ref and ctl completely - and the lights go full bright. In Daniel's picture - which I drew on below - it showed another resistor that I couldn't figure out the need for... Anyone have an idea if that is necessary??
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