Just looking at my previous post, the three hours does not include painting. I think it was thinkJason who mentioned most likely needing 3 cans of paint. I bought three and it worked out pretty well. I did paint everything, but that just comes down to personal preference. I think including L-brackets would be a good idea, I was unable to find the right ones so far, but I haven't looked online.
The assembly instructions were awesome. Well laid out and well thought. I was able to churn through assembly in a just over a couple hours. There were a just a couple of things, but I would expect that with a work in progress. Pg 6 shows a outer pulley half and inner pulley half, but I received solid pulleys (or Rob put them together for me
Discrepancies between the parts list and the assembly instructions:
~50 drywall screws, assembly instructions had 26
20 2" bolts, assembly instructions had 14
6 2 1/2" bolts, assembly instructions had 4
20 nuts, assembly instructions 25
20 washers, assembly instructions had 18
The parts list, while containing more pieces, is more thorough. There is a wealth of info in there. It also lists somethings that the assembly instructions didn't such as the halogen light bulbs, light shades, countersink bit, drill bit and correct size of the glass. The best part by far is the listing of part #s for these various parts. I was able to walk into Home Depot and get almost everything in one shot. More than a couple times I was told they didn't carry what I was looking for, only for me to bust out the SKU number and then have them locate it for me. I tried to edit the parts list to add the SKu number for the threaded rod, by my excel skills are lacking (something I should get on).
I was kind of rethinking the mounting of the glass plates. I like the use of L-brackets but these were some thoughts I had. Let me know what you guys think as I didn't design the kit and hence could be missing the thoughts behind the design. I'm thinking about drilling holes in the front and rear plate above the notch for the L-brackets. This way I could slide a bolt in from the inside of the scanner and secure the L-bracket with a wing-nut. This would allow for easy and repeatable adjustment. The issue I see is possible light reflection, but if it wasn't solved with flat black paint I could always just use black felt or something. I saw the felt pads as a way of holding the glass. I've seen before little rubber pieces that are sticky on one side that I think would grip the glass better, but that's not to say that the felt pad is a bad route. I haven't mounted the platen yet (no L-brackets) but when I do it will be with the felt pads and then I'll go from there.
Pg 18 of the Assembly Instructions shows the small and large lever arms and how to install the bearings. It was a very tight fit. I remember from years of skating that if you dent the shield that resides between the two bearing races, you could very well permanently damage the bearing. I installed them a little differently. I used one of the bolts, two washers and a nut and created kind of a screw press to pull them together.
And then using a adjustable wrench and a ratchet, i just tightened until they were in place. You wanna make sure that the bearings are positioned directly over the holes. It will feel really tight as your wrenching but keep going until it stops. You'll notice the difference.
The other thing I did when mounting the cradle wings and angles to the cradle platform was to put the cradle platform on top of the large/small braces before pushing down. The bearings that mount to the cradle platform are secured by screws and if you push down hard enough you could bend/pull the screw out. I found that the cradle angles (as called in the assembly instructions) were a tight fit and giving it a little elbow grease was necessary to get it to fit.
And that's where I'm at now. I have a bachelor party in Colorado this weekend so I won't be getting it completely functional till next week, but the goal is to be able to process a book by Wednesday. I'm not going to go the cable actuated camera route. I'm going to make the USB battery-less remote as detailed at http://www.sakeoftruth.com/2010/04/usb- ... ject-pt-1/
Let me know if you guys have any questions or suggestions.