FOR SALE

[univurshul]

The LCDs don't necessarily require power switches because they auto-power down & sleep when they don't receive a composite signal (noted in the original post). They work exceptionally well this way when tethered to cameras; when the cameras sleep, so do the displays. There is really no need to wire inline switches.

Many Radio Shacks carry the type L--yes--but most do not sell an L with wire leads (it comes with galvanized pins that require you to buy the companion brick + female part). They only sell their interchange brand, and for a pin adapter, they charge almost $6/pin (I suppose stock varies across their stores, and a site like Mouser likely has the pins if you prefer pins). I solder leads to the board because of this, and it does not impede on the pin adapter from functioning normally. I've also recently been wiring these displays with 2-Wire Keyed Electrical Quick-Disconnectors (viewtopic.php?f=6&t=593)

The power adapter specs were disclosed in the original post as noted above. The LCDs will receive a varying degree of amperage. I have tested 2 displays on 1 DC-AC brick up to 3A. 1.5A produces enough power, but it is noticeably dimmer on both displays.

[diybookscannermember]

Thanks for the clarifications.

Yeah, I realize most people probably wont care to do the modifications that I have. I just thought it was fun to make these switches and that maybe some other people would be inspired to show what they have done with these monitors. My other inspiration was that all of my other monitors have both the power saving features AND power switches so thought it would be nice if these monitors had switches too. I like that your upgrading your connectors to the ones you mentioned in your last post. However I just wanted to use the standard power connectors that were already present on the monitors circuit boards because I'm still trying to figure out where to place the monitors for my setup, I'm also planing on building a different setup in the future. This means I have a need to connect and disconnect the power to these monitors repeatedly. This is why I needed something that simply plugs in and unplugs without having to unwrap sticky electrical tape or unlock and then pull really hard on the connectors, etc. I went to the local store to get the size L connectors because I don't have time to wait for them to come in the mail since school has started and I need to get my books scanned as soon as possible.

Thanks for making these monitors available.
They are really great and fit the scanner build really well.

[diybookscannermember]

Oops,

I think the link to the schematic I posted previously has died.
here is the link to the updated image:

[univurshul]

Nice. I do like your work, but I replied the way I did to give the basic facts about how the displays work for would-be buyers. The displays don't care if there's an inline switch or not; so long as they have juice and a composite signal, they operate. If not, they sleep.

And true about shock and surge protection: they are fairly resilient to accidents, but always err on the side of caution when wiring; to protect yourself and the hardware from being damaged. Wire & insulate the harness with the unit unplugged from the wall socket or power source.

I usually dry-mount for ergonomics and then wire accordingly. Most New Standards stay put, but the trend is now mobile, packable systems and I am sensitive to this need. This is why bought a bulk order of 2-Wire Keyed Electrical Quick-Disconnectors (viewtopic.php?f=6&t=593).

Anyone who's bought a set of displays from me is more than welcome to a free set of the disconnectors as a courtesy; simply cover the packing & shipping charges, I'll mail them out.

[daniel_reetz]

I made a stand for one of my displays, because I'll be using it for hacking the Kinect:

[clemd973]

Highly recommend the LCD's being sold by Univurshul. I bought a pair, made a bracket, painted them and mounted them all in a day. I went with an independent power supply for each and two 6' AV cables from Amazon (less than $1 each, yep that's right). ***Note, make sure to pay attention to what Univurshul says in his suggestion to wire the right camera to the left monitor, and vsv.

Used two 3' aluminum angle brackets (3/4" x 1/2" sides) and cut them to size; marked the holes corresponding to the LCD frames as well as three holes in the middle to mount to upright brace on scanner; applied "Aluminum Primer" (Self-Etching primer works too) and flat-black spray paint.

Taped off the display; applied "Self-Etching" primer here and then multiple coats of flat-black spray paint. It helps if you don't do this on the ground because dirt tends to blow onto the job.

My build without the LCD's.

LCD's mounted to the bracket.

Rear view.

Attached LCD's with 3/4" #8 pan-head screws, with a lock washer and nut.

Mounted to the upright 2x4 support; three screws on top brace, and three on the bottom. That should hold it!!!

Note the four screw heads visible in the 2x4 between the braces...that's where I mount the power strip. Easy access and hidden from view.

Mounted and ready to go...well, almost. I only had one AV cable at the time of mounting. The black "bars" you see on top are actually 1/2" PVC functioning as a curtain rod to hold black back drops to shield from outside glare.

Only one display on at the time because I only had one AV cable. But they both work great.

Again, I highly recommend the LCD's if you have the extra cash. Shipping is fast, safe, and very reasonable.

[fatchuck]

Univershul,

What is the cost for one of your book stands? I couldn't find the original post listing that.

Thank you,
Chuck

[spamsickle]

I don't think he was selling book stands here, he was selling LCD monitors.

Unfortunately, he's decided to leave the forum. I don't know if he's still reading it or not, and I don't have contact information, so if you want to buy an LCD monitor you might be better off currently checking eBay or electronics liquidators.

[daniel_reetz]

Univurshul left the forums and asked me not to contact him again, and not in the nicest way. He also signed back up yesterday under a new name, posted, and deleted his post. This echoes his previous behavior of posting inflammatory material and then going back and deleting and editing it, like he did the first post in this thread, and a bunch of other threads and posts.

If he wants to join this community again, joining under another name and PMing users here is not the way to do it.

He is welcome to contact me and discuss posting here (and he has all my contact information) but he is not welcome to drop in under a new name and go fundraising in these forums. With that, I am locking this topic.